

General Discussions
Early Oliver Super 55 diesel Wiring
I was looking at the wiring diagram in the repair manual for the pedal start Super 55s, as compared to the key start Super 55s. The drawings show only two connections on the voltage regulator, L (Load) and B (Battery). The key start have 3 connections the third being field. Right now, my tractor is wired like a key start. Can I just remove the third terminal connection? My wiring harness has a red and green wire with the green going to load terminal from the light switch, and a red going to the battery terminal. I will attach the wiring diagram. Anyone else have an early diesel Super 55 they can send a picture of the regulator?


Fleetline alternator
I have a couple fleetlines I wish to convert to 12 volt. I am wondering whether a mini alternator will fit behind the side panels. Anyone have experience with this?
What Others Have Done
From Yesterday’s Tractors forum:
“Stiener Tractor Parts sells a small one wire alternator that fits perfectly on the 66 or 77, and behind the panel. I have used them three different times.”“I have fit the one wire Delcos under three tractors with side curtains. They will fit and are $45 at AutoZone.”“We have had some generators switched from 6 to 12 volt as well.”steinertractor.com+12Yesterday's Tractors Forums+12talk.newagtalk.com+12talk.newagtalk.com
From New Ag Talk:
A user running a Fleetline 66 shared that they used a small Delco alternator with an external voltage regulator, but noted it still caused the side panel to bulge a bit.
Another suggested using a small Hitachi alternator, often used in Farmalls, which may offer a more compact fit.talk.newagtalk.com
From Yesterday’s Tractors (“Nice Oliver alternator conversion” thread):
A user posted a photo of a mini Denso alternator, describing it as “not much bigger than a softball”—a nicely compact option. Another mentioned:
“I got one that was advertised as a 1‑wire alternator, but I had to add an excite wire to make it charge. Wasn’t a big deal—just jumped a wire from the plus side of the coil to the alternator. Works perfectly.”Yesterday's Tractors Forums+1
Summary of Findings
OptionProsCons / NotesSmall 1-wire DelcoAffordable (~$45), often fits behind panelsMay cause light bulge on side panelsMini HitachiCompact, good fitMay need external regulator or minor wiring tweaksMini DensoVery small, clean install, can be 1-wire with modificationRequires minor wiring adjustment (excite wire)
Bottom line:Yes—mini alternators can fit behind the side panels on Fleetline (and similar Oliver) tractors. Your best bets are compact one-wire Delco units, mini Hitachi units, or small Denso alternators.
Tips for Your Conversion
Measure clearance behind your side panels before ordering—to ensure physical fit.
Consider one-wire alternators, which simplify wiring and eliminate the need for external regulators.
If your alternator doesn’t self-excite, it's usually easy to add an “excite” wire from the coil (+) post to trigger charging.
Watch panel fitment—even small units like Delcos may cause slight bulging; ultra-compact Densos often minimize this.
Test charging performance—during initial runs, make sure it begins charging once RPM is up (often around 1,500-1,800 RPM).
Madison South Dakota
Brian and I visited prairie village in Madison South Dakota yesterday to check out the grounds for the HPOCA summer show in 2025. I uploaded a ton of videos on the HPOCA YouTube channel. Lots to do for kids and adults from the 1903 steam ran
carousel, huge 2 cycle engines , 4 different parades a day, tractor pulls every day, and even a play about the settlers in the late 1800's and a train.


On the very early pedal-start Super 55 diesels, the regulator setup was indeed a little different from the later key-start tractors.
Two-terminal regulators (Battery “B” and Load “L”) were used on the earliest models. The generator’s field circuit was internally controlled, so you didn’t see a separate external “F” (Field) terminal. That’s why your manual shows only two connections.
Three-terminal regulators (Battery “B,” Load “L,” and Field “F”) came in when Oliver moved to the key-start arrangement. These had the external field terminal, so the harness added the extra wire.
If your tractor is wired like the later key-start version, simply removing the wire from the “F” terminal won’t work unless your generator and regulator match as a pair. The regulator has to be the correct two-terminal style if you want to run it like the early diesel setup. If you currently have a three-terminal regulator installed, you’ll need to keep that field connection — otherwise the generator won’t charge correctly.
What to check:
Look at the tag on your voltage regulator. If it’s a 2-terminal regulator, keep only B and L hooked up.
If it’s a 3-terminal regulator, you need the field wire connected.
Make sure your generator matches the regulator type. Mixing a 3-terminal regulator with the early 2-wire harness (or vice versa) will cause charging issues.
So the short version: don’t just remove the third wire unless you also have the correct early 2-terminal regulator.