Wiring a 1 wire alternator

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Wiring a 1 wire alternator

Postby carisu » Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:24 pm

On my 66 diesel specifically, what is the correct wiring for a one wire alternator with an amp gauge? Right now mine goes from the terminal on the alternator, to one post on the ammeter, from the other post, to the positive terminal on the battery.

I'm only getting it to charge when I unhook the link to the positive terminal and hook it back up after it's running. It won't just charge when I start it. Is that normal and I just need to put it on an ignition switch? I also get a positive "charge" signal on the ammeter when I turn my lights on. I guess this might be normal too because the alternator is compensating for the extra draw of the lights?

Can anyone confirm or deny this?
www.carlsonbrothersfarm.com
Restored Tractors:
Farmall F-20
International 460 Utility
International I-4
McCormick Deering WK-40
Farmall 806 Diesel
1954 Oliver 66 Diesel
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Location: Iowa

Alternator

Postby John Schwiebert » Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:28 pm

O. K. The disadvantage to a single wire alternator is they need a good amount of RPM to start charging. With that being said high idle no load on your little diesel is 1750 RPM. so what size pulley are you running? Next thing, I hope your wire is at least 10 gauge for safety purposes. Me, I would not use a single wire alternator. I would get a Delco out of a junk yard, have them check it and hook it up, You will need an oil pressure switch to activate it and disconnect it once the engine is shut off. Now what was the problem with your 12 volt generator. What do you intend to use the tractor for.
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Postby carisu » Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:31 am

It had an alternator on it when I got to it. My reason for the alternator is that it will charge much faster because it's a show tractor and doesn't run for extended periods of time.

I know about the minimum rpm to make it charge and i know I'm reaching that because I get a good charge signal when it's working. My pulley is only like 2.5 inches.

Basically, you're saying that I just need to put a switch on it so that I can turn it on and off when i want it to charge.

I also read about my particular alternator that it doesn't discharge when it's not running. The internals completely shut down unless the pulley is spinning.
www.carlsonbrothersfarm.com
Restored Tractors:
Farmall F-20
International 460 Utility
International I-4
McCormick Deering WK-40
Farmall 806 Diesel
1954 Oliver 66 Diesel
carisu
 
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 10:03 am
Location: Iowa

Postby m_lappin » Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:33 pm

What you have is a self energizing, self regulating alternator.

Replaced a lot of generators around the farm with those, for the most part work very well if you use a 2.5" pulley.

One thing I have had is having a battery discharge and the alternator would test fine on the test stand. With the engine off, and in the shade or a darkened building disconnect the hot wire. If you see even the tiniest of sparks, replace the alternator.

My 1600D did this. Repair place tested the alternator and said it was fine, but had that teeny spark when disconnecting the hot wire, replaced alternator, end of problem.

The original generator worked on it, but on the rare occasions I could actually round bale past dark, the generator couldn't produce enough to keep up with the current draw from the lights, the Harvest Tec preservative applicator and the electronic monitors and electric motors on the round baler.
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Postby JRW111 » Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:55 pm

You will want to put the wire to the light switch on the same post as the output wire from the alternator on the gauge. The only wire on the other side of the gauge should go to the battery. The glow plug heater wire doesn't go to the gauge, only from the battery to the switch. HTH
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Re: Wiring a 1 wire alternator

Postby out plowing » Fri Oct 28, 2016 3:35 pm

What alternator did you use on your 66?
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